Posted by: viewfromtheriva | December 16, 2012

Split’s winter cafe society


The crowd at Bajamonti

Ever since the cold weather settled in, Split locals in search of their caffeine have taken to the indoors.  With the days of sitting in the sun on the Riva (called “the poor man’s blanket” because of how much warmer it is sitting along this expansive south facing promenade, bathed in sun and sheltered by a backdrop of tall limestone walls) finding a cozy indoor spot is not so easy.  In a city by the sea, indoor cafes around the Palace are practically private haunts that seat maybe 20,  like the charming Galerija and other vest-pocket cafes in the alleyways.

Although this is only it’s second winter,  Restaurant Bajamonti, in the center of the Prokurative, the big square at the end of the Riva that looks like a smaller replica of St. Mark’s in Venice, is becoming THE place to go.

Beautifully carved out of the vestibule and second floor balcony of one of the city’s early movie houses, the Bajamonti serves great desserts (a rarity here, most cafes only serve coffee, tea and alcoholic beverages) as well as an intriguing lunch and dinner menu.

The tables and chairs are modern and comfortable; great view onto the square and sea and the vaulted remains of the movie house balcony ceiling creates quite an atmosphere.

And for smokers, a glass enclosed private nicotine den to puff til your heart;s content.

The crowd is eclectic–from the stylish to the ragamuffin.  Today someone was even playing the piano at 10AM in the morning!

A great place to get our of the cold and settle in without being hassled.

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