Posted by: viewfromtheriva | November 7, 2017

The art of making plov at Stari Barin in Split


One of the most celebrated Central Asian meals is plov.  Traditionally made only by the man in the house, this wonderful spice infused rice-based layered steamed “casserole” of lamb with carrots dish takes hours to prepare and infinite patience to get just right.

We still have fond memories of Uzbek plov served up by a friend deep in the heart of Russia a decade ago, so when we stumbled on Stari Barin (“the old Duke”) a new restaurant just outside central historic core of Split (fittingly located on Tolstoy Street), we ran in and after downing several skewers of beef and amazing manti, a sort of Central Asian ravioli but much better), we were invited back for plov “in a few days”.

When the call came, we were THERE!

Leonid, the owner, invited me out back to see the grand unveil.  There in the corner was his cast iron pot and as he lifted the lid, the smell almost made me swoon….wow, plov in Split!  He gently scooped the top layer of rice and carefully placed it on the waiting plate.

Next of course, would come the layer of carrots….essential to plov along with those exotic spices.  Again he dipped his ladle into the lovely rice and scooped out some carrots.

Finally down into the lamb and onto the plate again where it was whisked to the table along with another plate for us to devour…it was soooo good we ordered two more to go!

If you get a chance, Stari Barin in Split….for wood grilled pork and chicken, plov, manti and more.  And most main courses are around 65 kuna or just $10 for such made-with-love cuisine.

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