Posted by: viewfromtheriva | March 23, 2014

The magic of Mosor!


On the way up, a rocky trail that definitely keeps your mind on where you step!

On the way up, a rocky trail that definitely keeps your mind on where you step!

Making the trek up Mosor mountain is a rite of passage for Split locals and tourists alike. It’s part of the Dinaric range that forms a rocky backbone above Split, running all the way down the coast.  Most don’t go to Mosor’s summit, about 3,000 ft. high, a four hour trek, but to an alpine hut at a place called Sitno Gornje, which is less than a 1/3 of the way up.

Although it wasn;t totally clear, the views back to Split and the sea were still  pretty wonderful

Although it wasn’t totally clear, the views were still pretty wonderful

We were invited to make our first pilgrimage by Nives and Josko and their wonderful 6 year-0ld son Adrian.  Nives is a professional guide and Greek translator and husband Josko a well-known TV cameraman who has done many documentaries with Croatia’s most celebrated mountaineer, Stipe Bozic  (who not only has climbed Everest twice, but all “Seven Summits”).

So we were in very good hands!  We drove to a staging area below the mountain near Zrnovnica, 15 minutes south of Split.  The route up is marked with a red circle painted on the rocks, which is not always easy to find!  Although not a difficult hike, the “path” is often simply chunks of rock lying about, so you do need to keep your mind on where you step.

Near the alpine hut, a signpost tells the story

Near the alpine hut, a signpost tells the story

sometimes it's a bit steeper than it looks!

sometimes it’s a bit steeper than it looks!

On a good sunny day families, kids, young and old are all on the trail–which gives an air of confidence to even novices like Natasha and me!

long way downEvery once in a while, looking back down, you realize that you are actually higher up than you think…which only adds to the fun and excitement of getting to the alpine hut that waits for all climbers at  Sitno Gornje.

The alpine hut at  Sitno Gornje has a great kitchen serving up home-cooked comfort food to all hikers at bargain prices

The sitting area outside the alpine hut at Sitno Gornje is a great place to chow down on the home-cooked comfort food that the cooks inside dish out to all hikders at bargain prices

Josko and I quickly learned that we both love pasta fazol, an Italian-inspired, slow-cooked beans and pasta dish made with bits of cured meat that tastes like heaven.  We had to wait another hour until it was done, so we walked around a bit, had some tea and enjoyed the view from the outside terrace.

Mosor is very popular--here are just a few of the memories from around the world stuck on the door of the hut

Mosor is very popular–here are just a few of the memories from around the world stuck on the door of the hut

I can definitely say that the pasta fazol I ate an hour later (actually almost two bowls) was the best I ever had.  Cooked in a huge pot on a wood fired stove, with a big fat sausage and chunks of great bread it was about $6.

hot from the pot

absolute yumminess

absolute yumminess

After chowing down, it was time to make the trek back…and going down is a lot more difficult since one slip and there you go headfirst into a pile of rocks!

there are breaks in the rocks when a trail appears

Split and the sea in the far distance!

What a great day up in the mountain….something we surely will do again.  I just wish it was easier to get to that hut because it would be my favorite lunch spot!

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