Posted by: viewfromtheriva | January 16, 2011

Homegrown mussels–a Dalmatian delicacy

Just imagine how many zillions of yummy mussels are growing at the bottom of these buoys?!

Just 15 minutes or so past Trogir what looks like a bunch of floating tires in the water comes looming up around a bend along a stretch of gorgeous seacoast road.  It’s actually a terrific mussel, oyster and fish farm that’s open 7 days a week year round to cater to locals and tourists alike.   Bujt the road is so narrow and the parking lot is so tiny, it’s really easy to miss.  So if you come, when you see the “tires” in the water, sloooow down!

The place that actually grows and sells the mussels is a pretty relaxed affair considering the size of their operation.  After climbing down some stairs to the dock perched below, a couple of locals saunter up to take your order.  I asked for a bowl of pasticada (a typical Dalmatian beef stew) they laughed and we had a nice chat while they scooped up some mussels.  For some reason mussels are very cheap here–although a great delicacy in some parts of Europe, Croatians enjoy them a traditional local dish for lunch or a light supper, not as a delicacy or part of a festive meal.

So at just 12kn a kilo (about $2.25 for 2.2 pounds!), mussels are a bargain for such succulent beauties.  The oysters, which the folks working here said are as good as the ones in Ston, are 6kn each, about $1.12 lb.  They also grow sea bass, which sells for 70kn a kilo or less than $6 lb.

A couple of kilos ready to go!

The drive to the fish farm was part of a great day poking about–we began in Split and drove to Vinisce, about 6km from Marina and 50km from Split.  The fast highway linking the roads wind down and through a host of pretty villages makes for a terrific coastal jaunt.

What a pleasure that in less than an hour you can “get out of Dodge” and be surrounded by the sea and endless olive groves–and stop when you want to just to enjoy the view or discover a splendid town like Segret Vranice along the way.   In January!

Sweeping views back to Ciovo Island from outside the village of Marina

Enjoy our new Croatian vacation portal

Read more about Croatia at secret dalmatia’s unique blog

Coming to Split?


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