Posted by: viewfromtheriva | December 24, 2009

The day before Christmas in Split–klapa, puppets and free fish soup!

The day before Christmas in Split the city is alive with all sorts of public, private and impromptu festivities.

As we walked through Varos down to the Palace we heard music and loudspeakers and what is that smell?  Fish soup!  Sure enough, the city had set up a bandstand and soup kitchens all around the Prokurative, or Republic Square and the place was mobbed.  We got in line and pretty soon were handed a steaming bowl of fazul na brudet (pardon my Croatian, but it’s fish stew with beans) with a couple of slices of fresh bread.  Yummy.

As we moved on to the Palace, we heard wonderful klapa (close harmony singing, without musical accompanyment) coming from behind the Iron Gate.  A gaggle of young, middle aged and elderly men had parked themselves against the ancient walls at the end of Bajamonte street and a pretty decent crowd had gathered to listen.  The singing was subtle, rich and just terrific.

Well fed, full of music we continued on to the square just beyond the Iron Gate where the city had set up yet another bandstand–this time to showcase the local puppet theatre.  Clad in black and working behind brilliantly costumed animal puppets, the professional troupe had the children in the audience jumping up and down and big kids like us bobbing our heads in appreciation.

A stroll through the Green Market (lots of fresh geese, suckling pigs and other holiday goodies available), we scooped up two kilos of home grown zucchini for just 12kn and some other greens before heading home to enjoy the sun and piece of jezvit (a fasbulous pizza shaped piece of delicate custard-filled pastry made fresh daily by Le Maison de Sarah, an authentic French patisserie on the Riva).

Another wonderful morning here in Split!

Enjoy our new Croatian vacation portal

Read more about Croatia at secret dalmatia’s unique blog



  1. sve najboje za blagdane…have nice xmstime…

  2. […] See original here: The day before Christmas in Split–klapa, puppets and free fish … […]

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