Posted by: viewfromtheriva | November 28, 2009

Pretty Primosten, a little piece of paradise

About an hour from Split up a glorious winding road that hugs the coast (once past the commercial part of Kastela), is Primosten, a jewel of town perched on its own peninsula, surrounded by the Adriatic.

A few minutes off the highway and you’re smack in the middle of town.  Now, without the tourists, the parking is easy but it’s clear that during the summer, this place is a magnet.  The old town begins at the end of circular drive that ends with an arched stone entryway–as if you are coming into the private driveway of some magnificent villa.

As you walk through, there is a square and a warren of small narrow streets that spiral in different directions.  Just walk to your left and find yourself on a stone footpath that leads you to the water.  From here you can literally walk completely around the entire peninsula, passing in front of small old stone houses, villas, apartments, et.–all of whom use this narrow lane to get to their residences.

Every 50 meters or so the town fathers have put benches so you can just stop, sit and gaze out at the open Adriatic. The only place I’ve seen that reminds of me such a completely non-commercial, waterfront meandering path is the bicycle and walking path along the Intercoastal in Palm Beach, Florida.

The sheer lack of any commerce walking along this path, looking down at the translucent sea and wonderful rocky shoreline, is magical.  Taking one of the narrow lanes that bi-sects the path brings you back into the center where there are lots of restaurants and shops.

We stopped at the Gracin honey shop to pick up some of their famed honey liqueur (at 35% alcohol, sweet firewater!) and luckily met the owner who of course knew Goran, our friend who owns a honey farm on the island of Solta.

A picnic lunch on a bench on front of the harbor was great–made even more great by stopping a local fisherman lugging along a pair of gorgeous, fresh caught fish.  We recognized one of them as a John Dory, what locals call San Petr, a “first class”, line caught deep water fish that goes for 380kn a kilo in good restaurants.  The other, with a fabulous indigo blue fin, we had never  seen before, but the man, grinning ear to ear and posing triumphantly so our friends could take a photo, said it too was “first class”.

With the sun making the water sparkle like diamonds, watching the boats bobbing up and down against their moorings, fat seagulls taking it all in, it’s hard to imagine we’re in late November.

Life is good.

And in Primosten, even more so!

Along the path

Still gorgeous in November!

Still gorgeous in November!

"The Street of Fishermen" Ribarska

Foggy, but still magical

Nothing between you and the sea!

Stone houses facing the sea

Enjoy our new Croatian vacation portal

Read more about Croatia at secret dalmatia’s unique blog



  1. nice walk…txs for visiting Primašten…

  2. The most striking feature of the old town is the church of St Juraj erected in 1485 and restored in 1760. The church is on a hill from which you get sweeping coastal views.

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