Posted by: viewfromtheriva | August 20, 2009

The best pizza in Split!

UPDATE July 2015:  Pizzeria GUST, hard to find, tucked away behind Prima, the mall opposite the national theatre at the end of Marmontova Street is fabulous as is the surprising by the slice or the pie (order in advance) Planet Pizza, at the corner of Marmontova and the Riva.  Even shrimp pizza is the same price as cheese!

UPDATE MARCH 1. 2016   We have to add Zora Bila, whose bespoke “gourmet” pizzas are truly special.  In Zjnan, where the number 7 and 8 bus ends.

BY THE SLICE:  we still go ga ga over Pizza Cut Planet at the end of the Riva, right on Marmontova it is the SECOND pizza shop on the corner.  Rukola is wonderful, but their pepperoni with sour cream or whatever on top is killer.  Thin crust yumminess, 10-12 kuna depending on what season

Croatians love pizza.  And here in Split every other person munching street food is enjoying a slice of pizza.  We’re no exception and having lived in Providence, Rhode Island and Boston, Mass. for many years –both of which have large Italian neighborhoods and serious world-class pizza (and cannoli!)–I know good pizza.

We discovered Bakra (the word in Croatian refers to a copper cooking pot, usually hung over a wood fire) on the way to Bacvice Beach.

It’s on a sleepy narrow lane five minutes from the Green Market. Cross the street at the end of the Green Market (you’ll be facing the ferry port). Then go left and make your first right–Radovanova Street.  Bakra is up on the right just 50 meters ahead.

Pretty unassuming place, menu posted outside…dark, homey interior, simple polished wooden tables and benches… and what’s that smell?  Aaah, a real wood-fired brick oven and folks who look like they’ve been throwing dough and cooking pizza for decades.

OK, so far so good, but how good?

We order the house special, local ham, fresh mushrooms, cheese and homemade tomato sauce.  Incredibly it comes out of the oven in like 9 minutes.  Incredibly thin crust, dry to the touch underneath with a wonderful nutty flavor and just the right amount of cheese (what is it with American pizzas that use 3 pounds of cheese on every pie?).  But it’s the subtle tomato sauce that knocks me out.  Everything works together, I think I hear my favorite Italian opera, but it’s Croatian klapa on the radio…..

still, I am in heaven.  Wood-fired brick ovenyummm!homey insideBakra Pizza (which means

For 38kn, about $7.50 for a “large” pie, I’m stuffed after 4 pieces.

Since that first blissful bite, we’ve been back a half dozen times and every time it has been great.

We usually stop at the green market for some rukola (rocket) and add it to the house salad.  And of course after we are done we stack the plates in appreciation and I think they know we are regulars because we get a little nod when we come in.

OK, so go!  And let me know if you agree that if this isn’t the best pizza you have had in a long, long time, it has to be near the top.

And their lasagne is excellent too…


Enjoy our new Croatian vacation porta


  1. We happened upon this place on a layover before boarding the ferry out and it was so good when we came back to Split a few days later, we went again. My wife and I agree it is some of the best pizza in Croatia even, and we’ve tried it across a few cities. It rivals the pizzerias in Slovenia, being BETTER than Italian pizza because of the Eastern influences. The subtle spice to the tomato sauce is what does it, along with the cheeses being pure amazing. Try the 4-cheese with gorgonzola and that local soft/sour feta.

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