Posted by: viewfromtheriva | July 9, 2009

The culinary delights of Split


Trattoria Bajamonte, a jewel in the Palace

Trattoria Bajamonte, a jewel in the Palace

One of the great things about Croatia of course is the food.  So many bounties–from rucola and fresh figs to fabulous fish and game.  And the sauces!  We’ve had at least six kinds of pasticada, the savory meat and gnocchi dish that takes 6 or more hours to simmer.  The sauce is a complex brew of wine, tomatoes, traditional spices and then a whole rainbow full of stuff like cloves, anise and more to give it an indescribable yumminess.  First time Natasha and I had it was on the way back from Zagreb on the bus.  We pulled off the road into some cafe and everyone headed for the buffet.  And being new we looked at what the driver ordered and had the same.  Sure enough it was pasticada, each hefty portion with about eight kilos of meat and a liter of sauce.  Just 40 kunas and we had to drag each other out of the place we were so stuffed.  The Trattoria makes theirs using a bit more clove than other places, which I particularly like.  Their best dishes are fish….fresh, lovingly cooked and reasonable.  Decent house wine, good bread, shrimp soup (pureed with cream, aaaah!) are other good choices.  The manager Sanja, a former prima ballerina with the Split company, is usually on hand along with a gaggle of locals, one of whom, a  local attorney who likes to speak English, always buys me wine or coffee and never lets me return the favor.  And I can’t think of anyone to sue, so this remains a problem.  At night a local guitarist drops by and the songs start to flow.  Considering the Trattoria is a tiny little jewel right in the tourist heart of the Palace, how it remains  so genuinely local and undiscovered is amazing.  So if you go, you didn’t hear about it from me, thanks.

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  1. […] Go here to read the rest: The culinary delights of Split « View from the Riva–Split Croatia […]


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